The brands on the schedule out here in Milan like to put on a show: event spaces are cavernous, models are numerous and the glitz is seriously amped up (the second day of MFW saw not one, but two glitter shower finales). And being one of the biggest labels on the billing during the men's shows, Versace is up there with the ballsiest of the ballsy.

photos:cocktail dresses

Having moved last season from showing at its palazzo HQ, Versace now shows inside the vast, spaceship-shaped Milano Congressi on the outskirts of the city - in a space that's less a room, more an aircraft-hanger packed with bleachers for the audience to drink it all in. However, even with a production on such a jaw-dropping scale, Donatella still manages to bring a little extra to the party (and it is always a party) - this season, by kicking off the show with a film, projected onto two giant gauze screens in the centre of the space. This was a part of her collaboration with Bruce Webber for Versace's new ad campaign, starring Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and a swathe of dancers, all shot on location in Chicago and all bathed in Medusa-headed garments. Supermodels having a great time is, of course, classic Versace - perhaps a nod to the big Nineties revival happening in culture right now?

However, while the film might have hit the cultural touch points Versace is famous for, Donatella's menswear offering on the catwalk felt new, different, fresh. Of course, the models were as God-like as ever, however, this was a notable clothed catwalk for Donatella. Yes there might have been a lighter-than-light anoraks billowing open exposing perfectly chiselled abs, but this time there were no swimming trunks, no underpants. These flesh-flashes made perfect sense in a collection dominated by sporty touches, such as a firm thigh poking out from under a pair of Lycra cycle shorts - part of Donatella's new Versace Active sportswear line.

As a whole, the collection felt light, breathable and luxurious: jumpers and trouser cuts were looser, tailoring had that classic "slouchy-yet-sharp" silhouette Donatella does so well (and jackets were often worn with cuffed trousers), leather outerwear was perforated and sneakers were worn aplenty. The big colours were buscuit-y beige, green, claret and purple. And while purple might be a trademark Versace colour, within this show it also had a deeper meaning. As the models walked, Donatella had Schopenhauer to soundtrack the show with a selection of tracks recorded for her by Prince - and at the finale a selection of female and male models walked out in frilled, sparkly outfits paying tribute to the singer.

In a show of such massive production values, it was a personal touch from Donatella that further reinforced the collection's relatability to men today.

Read more:cocktail dresses uk